My son and I sat quietly for several minutes on one of the several hundred stone steps we’d climbed to reach the Shinto shrine at Nikko, a UNESCO World Heritage Site northeast of Tokyo.  His sisters and mom were putting their shoes back on somewhere behind us.  A mountain stream could be heard nearby.  We were surrounded by trees, several times older than the two of us combined.  Not a person was in sight. Me:  “Where, do you think, is the most peaceful place we’ve ever been?” I…

I awoke at 5am on June 7 and walked to the nearest 7-11 for breakfast of eggs and some triangular rice thing with meat inside before taking the train down to a sumo gym to watch giant men in diapers push each other outside of a dirty circle.  There weren’t any matches going on during our stay, so we found that the Arashiobeya gym allows folks to quietly watch through the window from the street, which sounds worse than it is–the wrestlers are actually quite close to the…

We landed in Tokyo on June 6 about 2pm and took the monorail, and then the subway, to our AirBnb in Ginza, deposited suitcases, and started exploring what felt like a new planet. Every man wore a white button up shirt and either navy or black slacks.  Every woman wore a white button up shirt and either a navy or black skirt.  All the buildings, residential or commercial, had exterior fire escapes (which seems more efficient than having such rarely used steps inside rent-able, temperature-controlled space, right?).  And…