For our 11th anniversary, we flew to Jacksonville on Veterans Day, took a shuttle to a ferry at Fernandina Beach, and then disembarked at Cumberland Island for a quarter mile walk along a sandy road to the Greyfield Inn, our home for the weekend.  We grabbed a pair of bikes and road a couple miles to the Dungeness Ruins, ate a picnic lunch, and saw some wild horses, armadillos, and turkeys. But mostly, we just stood still, looking and listening. I’d never been to Cumberland Island before.  I…