We awoke early and watched the sunrise from our lanai in Hana and then headed counterclockwise along the road we’d followed the day before (since construction prohibited our continuing clockwise as we’d planned).

On the way, we stopped to check out the black sand beach at Waianapanapa State Park–another phenomenon I’ve wanted to see my whole life but had never seen in person–arriving at 7:30am.  It did not disappoint.  I loved walking along the tiny black pebbles of “sand” along the ocean.  We explored a lava tube cave leading to the water and a blowhole nearby before getting back in the car to head to our scheduled tour of O’o Farm.

To make our start time at O’o Farm required driving faster than one should probably drive along a road with over 600 curves in the rain, and the children were not enjoying the experience in the back seat.  Nausea set in before long, and not long after, our youngest was leaning out her window to spew all over the side of the Explorer.  Not to be outdone by his sister, a few miles later, our boy followed suit, and about a half hour after that, his little sister added to her artwork on her side of the vehicle.  I kept driving, because 1) I didn’t want to be late, 2) it was raining, and 3) it’s a rental.

We arrived right on time at the farm–10:30am–and got to take a guided tour that including pulling various fruits off trees and eating them as we went (which was a nice way to refill emptied tummies).  We gradually filled our guide’s basket with the vegetables we learned about as we walked, and at the end of our tour, a chef prepared the veggies we’d just gathered, added some chicken and shortrib, and we had a delicious meal outside.  Farm to table.  Quite literally.

After lunch, we toured the Kula Botanical Garden, a peaceful, quiet place with lots of native foliage to see, touch, and learn about, and after that, Ali’i Kula Lavender farm, where I enjoyed smelling all the lavender one nose can smell.

That night we stayed at the rustic Kula Lodge, where we’d be well positioned to get up early and watch the sun rise from 10,000 feet the next morning.  Our room had an interesting configuration that featured a loft for the 11 and 9yo to sleep in above our bed, and the youngest had a mattress under the stairs, which made her feel like Harry Potter at the Dursleys’.  We set the alarm for 4:20am, excited to see an “other worldly”  national park the next day.

This springtime’s “where’m I gonna use my Delta companion pass this year” question was easy to answer.  Since going to Shakespeare & Company bookstore in Paris last June and to Ketchum, Idaho last fall, I’ve been a voracious Hemingway reader–both of his works and of the biographies about his adventures.  I wanted to go to his house and museum in Key West.  Last weekend, we went.

We landed at 10:30am, picked up a convertible Camaro, and pulled up to Joe’s Stone Crab 15 minutes before its 11:30am opening time.  I’d read in my “1000 Places to See Before You Die” book that this was a must-visit place in Miami, so we ventured to Miami Beach before heading south on US-1.

The book was right.  Joe’s Stone Crab was an amazing experience–excellent food, service, and ambiance.  It may have also been the most expensive alcohol-free lunch (almost–we had 1 cocktail each) I’ve ever had; however, I’m glad we went.  The crabs were in season, and since we were early, they happened to have a few “colossal” sized claws (the menu stopped at “jumbo”) that day, so we ordered those, and they were enormous…and delicious.  We got hashbrowns and coleslaw to go with them (also delicious) and then key lime pie that was so awesome I wanted to find a bed roll and stay there indefinitely (I later read that Joe’s is the alpha chapter of key lime pie, incidentally!).

Then, we put the top down and headed south to where the highway ends, arriving at the Knowles House B&B at 5:30pm (a recommendation from my friend Karisa’s blog).  A few minutes later, we walked down to the sunset pier to watch the famous Key West sunset.

Dinner was at Bliss Restaurant, and the delicious food (called “seafood and Latin infusion”) was preceded by the best Sangria I’ve ever had anywhere (including many many samples in Barcelona and Pamplona).  Then, we explored Old Town and Duval Street, dropping in at Sloppy Joe’s and Captain Tony’s before seeking refuge from the St Patrick’s Day + spring break revelers at a couple art galleries and the Key Lime Pie Company, where I had a piece of key lime pie on a stick, dipped in dark chocolate that was perfect.  We closed the evening at Joe’s Tap Room where I could enjoy an island cigar.

I hardly slept Saturday night, as I was so excited about Sunday’s activity; I was downstairs waiting on breakfast an hour before its designated start time.  We walked up to the Hemingway Home & Museum shortly after its 9am opening.

Upon entering, there were posters from the films created from his writings in the hallway, photographs of his friends and him in the parlor, and other keepsakes on display.  There was one of him on the front porch of his home in Ketchum, Idaho, clearly taken close to the time of his death; my eyes started to water, because I’m immediately saddened when thinking about someone with so much talent and who enjoyed so many adventures, yet who took his own life after failed treatments for bipolar disorder.

A loud voice signaled the start of the next tour, so we assembled with the other visitors in front of our guide. The tour began, and within 30 seconds I realized our guide was going to try and be funny instead of deferential, and I hated her tour (it was her preface to our “hall of wives” tour that did it).  We continued to follow, however, and I told myself I’d go back through the house by myself after her tour ended, which is what I did.  I went up to the room where he wrote 70% of his works by myself; it was in a separate building from his home that he accessed via an elevated cat walk, but a hurricane took it down, so now one accesses it with exterior stairs from the ground.

There were taxidermied heads from Africa and Idaho, a fish from Key West or Cuba, lots of windows, and, of course, a typewriter.  Our guide said he used to write out his words and then later type them before sending them to his editor or publisher, but my research from reading multiple biographies indicates he actually sat and wrote longhand his descriptions but stood to type conversation, because he felt conversation is more of a staccato style that typing and standing would better capture.  I thought about bringing this up during the “any questions” portion of our tour, but then figured nothing would be gained from such, and I’ll believe what I’ve read about how he wrote instead of the guide’s version, and that’s all I have to say about that.

There were many cats, and they’re all named for movie stars and political dignitaries, and they descend from the cats Hemingway and his family had when they lived there, and most have 6 toes, as everyone knows.

I’m not normally much of a “cat person,” since one scratched and bit me a bunch when I was a kid, and one of my cousins’ cats peed in my suitcase when we visited their home in Phoenix in 1988, but the particular cat pictured above seemed like he needed patting, and I didn’t want to fly to Miami and then drive to Key West to go to Ernest Hemingway’s house, be surrounded by over 50 cats, and not pat one of his cats.  So, I pat this cat, and it did not attack me nor nor pee in my luggage.  In fact, the cat rather enjoyed the experience, as did I.

We went in the gift shop and bought a little painting featuring the old man and the boy from “The Old Man and the Sea” that was commissioned to honor the Pulitzer Prize-winning book, and now we have it hanging in our dining room, and even though the old man’s prize marlin got eaten by sharks, the little boy still respected the old man, and their likeness in watercolors makes me happy every day.

After I spent as many hours as I felt I could at the house/museum, we walked to the edge of the water for our charter fishing trip, scheduled with Captain Will of Reel Thang fishing.  I had a beer at the marina bar (that was Barrelhead Bar in “License to Kill”) and then my bride and I boarded the boat for some snorkeling on a reef for a bit, and then we found a spot to start tossing out chunks of live bait. We caught some small snapper.

Then Captain Will decided we should try another spot, and we caught even bigger snappers, some triggerfish, and a feisty grouper!  At this spot, our guide captured some ballyhoo with a net that we used for bait.  We tried to snag some mackerel but weren’t able to, but it was great fun to watch them hit the bait and try to bring them in.

And now I see why guys I know fly down to the Caribbean over and over again to go saltwater fishing.

Captain Will cleaned the fish for us, and we walked up to the little Thai restaurant above the marina where I’d had our pre-fishing trip beer, carrying a bag of filleted fish, and they prepared sushi and stir-fry from the fish we’d just caught, and it was amazing, and I felt like it was the manliest day I’d ever spent in maybe my entire life.

That evening, we went back out on a much quieter Duval Street for a bit, hitting some of the spots from the night before, but taking more time to enjoy Sloppy Joe’s, especially the Hemingway memorabilia on the walls; I even bought some souvenir glasses and coasters in the attached gift shop.

Monday morning after breakfast, we started back up US-1 toward Miami with the top down, parking near my “web guy’s” office (whom I’ve used for 6 years) to see how the firm has grown from about 5 people to over 100 (in multiple cities) now.  We had a great lunch at a French restaurant nearby and then grabbed Cuban sandwiches and espresso at Las Palmas for the short drive to the airport.

And thus ended a wonderful 3-day weekend trip with my bride to follow our family’s 7-day Maui trip (after 4 days in the office).  I hope we can always spend at least 1 weekend per year away, just the 2 of us, though such trips always make me want to revisit the locations we pick with the children.

Next up?  A road trip exploring Shenandoah National Park, Congaree National Park, Jamestown, and colonial Williamsburg for spring break in April!

We landed Tuesday evening at Kahului airport, took the shuttle to Avis, and drove our Ford Explorer to Mama’s Fish House for dinner before sleeping at its inn.  Our kids’ Christmas present was finally beginning.

I had the “traditional Hawaiian” meal for dinner, and the smoked wild boar was the best pork I’ve ever eaten (and I eat a LOT of smoked pig).  We learned of the restaurant and inn from the 1000 Places to See Before You Die book I consult before going anywhere new.

Because we don’t like to ease into vacations or get over jet-lag, the next morning, we loaded the car and drove the famous road to Hana.  We used the Shaka Guide app, which places you via GPS and describes where you are and where you should stop and see stuff along the way; it also provides history (and music!) relevant to each area. We chose the “loop” option, as we had planned to go to Hana and spend the night our first day, continuing on the less paved (and more frightening) part of the road on the second day, but it’s closed for construction until August, meaning we had to turn around and head back the way we’d come, so we effectively did the “classic” version.

The app tour was awesome.  We left shortly after sunrise, so we never found ourselves stuck in traffic the entire day.  Also, we started from Paia instead of from further west (or southwest) like most folks do. If you’re wanting to do this 40-something mile drive with > 600 curves for several hours, I’d recommend starting there (it’s a short drive east of the airport).

Some of the places we opted to stop included Ho’okipa Beach Park, Huelo Lookout fruit stand, Ke’anae Arboretum (with rainbow eucalyptus trees!), Keannae Peninsula, the hidden lava tube cave, Coconut Glen’s ice cream stand, Kahanu Garden (an impulse visit but very cool) and various short hikes to waterfalls along the way.

This ice cream was the bomb! Vegan and organic–it’s made from coconut milk!  Quite possibly my favorite anywhere.

That discreet hole opens up to a giant room and keeps going–very cool find!

In the afternoon, we toured the Hana Gold Cacao Plantation and learned all about chocolate, and then we ate lots of delicious dark chocolate, and since my 11yo doesn’t particularly care for chocolate, I also ate lots of her delicious dark chocolate, and then I grabbed the bits off anyone else’s plate from the tour that would have otherwise been discarded and emotionally scarred forever, because Hawaii turns me into a beacon of benevolence.

After that, we went to the Kipahulu Visitor Center at Haleakala National Park, so the children could get their junior ranger workbooks to start on that evening. We hiked the Pipiwai Trail and saw the 7 Sacred Pools and Makahiku Falls plus –and this is something I’ve wanted to do my entire life–the Red Sand Beach just before sunset, which was every bit as cool as I envisioned (but sort of a scary hike with 3 children).

That evening, we ate at The Preserve and stayed at Travaasa Hotel in Hana; both were excellent (and were also from the “1000 Places” book).  We watched the sun set from our lanai before putting on swimsuits.

After nightfall, we all 5 sat in the hot tub, and I enjoyed a Cuban cigar under the stars.  It was just about perfect.  Even after a week in Maui, I found the first day to be my favorite.